We are back to the old familiar rhythm this stage: ascending in the morning and descending in the afternoon. It's getting a bit light as we walk through the cute white streets of Ubrique towards the first slope. We pass many leather factories, tanneries and shops selling leather bags, purses and jackets. In Spain, Ubrique is known as the artisan leather capital of the world and it shows. 80% of the population is directly or indirectly dedicated to the leather craft that is being practised here for thousands of years. It has made for a very beautiful and vibrant town we saw yesterday on our rest day, when we strolled through the zigzagging white streets and cosy centre in the afternoon. This morning we walk out of the village again with our backpacks on, heading for the next place. We soon walk uphill on the distinctive old stone roads that were used as far back as the Middle Ages and were originally built by the Romans. It's to be hoped for the horses and donkeys that pulled carts along these roads, that the path in those days was better maintained, as the many loose stones are real ankle-breakers. We climb along pastures with some fruit and almond trees between the mountains.
At the top of the first stretch, we ignore a diversion to white Benaocaz to save some kilometers. At 27 kilometers, the walk is long enough. It's a shame though, because this too seems to be a very pretty old town. But at the end of the shortcut, we do come across a piece of history. In the middle of the greenery, with stunning views, stands Hotel Agua Nueva. This accomodation blossomed in the 60s and 70s, but has now been empty for more than 40 years. Nowadays the gigantic building looks like a haunted house. The fact that it was built on an old pig slaughterhouse that had to close down because of some bad hams, makes it even spookier. After another stretch of ascending, we emerge into a higher valley, where we walk across fresh grass past a flock of sheep. At the end of the valley, the old road goes up another bit through scrub and low trees. When arrived at the top, we see another white village: Villaluenga del Rosario. We hadn't seen this village on the map, but it's a nice surprise. A beautiful lane leads us to the village. Again, old white houses, pretty streets and beautiful flowers. We see many signs for Payoya Queso. This village appears to be famous for its goat cheese from the almost extinct Payoya goat. But the shops are closed, so unfortunately we can't taste it. After the village, we walk through dark oak forests. We are accompanied by the cuckoo, which we haven't heard since the Ardennes last year. After walking for about 12 kilometers, we enter a high valley on the other side of the forest. A large green plain where cows, horses, sheep and goats graze is surrounded by tall white/grey mountains with occasional bushes or grass. Because it is completely surrounded, it has something magical. On the one hand, it's lovely, with the grazing animals, flowers and green grass on the rolling plain. On the other, the bare rocks make it whimsical again. A distinct combination. It's a nice place for a break. We enjoy the silence and tranquillity of this landscape. As we move on again, we cross the valley. We see wild white daffodils blooming among the grass and many daisies. At the side of the valley, another considerable climb over narrow mountain paths to Puerto del Correo awaits us. This mountain pass to the next valley goes just over 1,000 meters in altitude. The first of this trip and even just a little higher than Col du Donon in the Vosges.
But the rocky peaks make it seem much higher. The next valley is magnificent as well. The large field looks like it has been smoothened out with a spirit level. The grass is strewn with white stones of which walls have been made to guide the cattle. In the distance we can see a finca and big brown cows grazing peacefully on this vast field. Walking through the valley, we see an Iberian fox running ahead of us, through the grass and further into the hills. Along the path, blue daffodils grow and besides the white one, the yellow daffodil also grows abundantly here. It's a beautiful piece of nature. Once in the valley, the narrow path turns into a wide dirt road. Nice to pick up some pace, as it's already almost 4 o'clock and we have another 7.5 kilometers to go. A quick break and then on to Montejaque. The road stays flat from here, climbs a bit and then descends to the village. We still enjoy the mountains, the beautiful trees, cows, horses, mules and goats we encounter. Nowhere do we see a shepherd or dogs near the herds, so the animals are free to roam. They lead a peaceful life here and apparently have not as much to fear from wolves as in the Alps, where each herd is guarded by several large dogs. The last kilometers go quickly and around 6 o'clock we arrive at the still sunny village square where the hotel is located. A fine place to end such a magnificent trek. How surprisingly beautiful the mountains are here!
