For the next stages towards Andorra, we have decided to keep the distances relatively short, just like the last few stages. The temperature will remain well above 30 degrees Celsius in the coming days, and with many altitude meters, hiking in the afternoons will certainly become quite challenging. It also gives us time to explore a bit more at the places where we arrive, as they often turn out to be worth it. Just like Espot, which turned out to be a beautiful, old town. This place has been inhabited since the 9th century and is now almost entirely dependent on tourism. In the summer, it benefits from its proximity to Aigüestortes National Park, while in winter, it relies on the higher ski resort. All the buildings in the village are constructed in the same style, using stacked gray natural stone and slate roofs. It looks beautifully authentic. After two days in the village, we are ready to set off again. It's about 12 kilometers to the next campsite in La Guingueta d’Àneu. From the campsite, we follow the road to Espot. Many white Jeeps pass by, heading to the National Park. Around 9 a.m., we cross the picturesque stone bridge over the Riu Escrita into the village. This Romanesque bridge, with the lovely name 'Puente Románico d’Espot o de la Capella', resembles the bridge at 'San Nicolas de Bujaruelo', a typical Pyrenean stone arch bridge.
We arrive right on time at the supermarket, which opens at 9 o'clock, to pick up some supplies for the road. Afterwards, we walk between the stone houses under a wooden bridge from one house to another, exiting the village. We pass by a few vegetable gardens and then head onto the path. We walk gently downhill through the valley. The river descends faster than we do, and after about 3.5 kilometers, we descend more steeply towards the water. The path is in the descent quite slippery. Even though it hasn't rained for days, there is still a considerable amount of water flowing down the path. We cross the river again, then pass a main road a bit further and climb up narrow paths towards Estaís, a village higher up. Quickly looking at the map, the route seemed to only descend today, but this is quite a steep climb. The asphalt road next to it is less steep but adds more kilometers due to its long switchbacks. Estaís is a small village, but it's still quite lively. People chat in the streets, but there are mainly a lot of dogs around. Big, gray, scruffy dogs and many small ones. Except for a bark or two, they all seem quite content.
It takes a while to find the red and white markings, but soon we're walking out of the village through the fields. It's clearly visible that we've entered a completely different landscape than 2 or 3 stages ago. There, the grass was fresh green and the trees were fully leafed out, with the terrain consisting of rocky large granite blocks, rough and solid. Here, the rock is limestone, with loose slabs and chunks of segmented stone protruding from the path. The grass is bone dry and yellow, even the leaves of the trees are yellow, and a few fall to the ground with every gust of wind. It's a completely different landscape, and it feels like a completely different season. Suddenly, we're in late summer, or even in some places, autumn. A whole different sensation, much more Mediterranean. At the halfway point of the journey, after about 6 kilometers, we take a break.
It feels luxurious, as if we've just started, but it's a beautiful spot with views over the valleys, and we've just bought fresh chocolate pastries, so we seize the opportunity. After the break, the path gently descends along the slope. Meadows give way to oak trees and shrubs, familiar from the dry areas inland. All the plants seem to have more thorns, clearly armed against the drought. Eventually, we reach a paved road to Jou. Another small village, less lively than the previous one, but adorned with beautiful stone houses and flower-filled window boxes. From here, the descent to the valley below begins. Still, a descent of about 400 meters over 2 kilometers at the end of the journey. But the legs are fresh from the days of rest and the modest stage so far. We walk along an old stone path between walls, probably used for centuries to reach this village. Occasionally, we pass by a barn or its remains. The descent is quick, and we arrive in the valley below before 1:00 p.m. Before the heat of the day peaks, but it's already quite hot, so it's not at all unpleasant to be able to set up the tent at the small Vall d’Àneu campsite. On the other side of the road is a small reservoir with wonderfully cold water, where we'll go to cool off in a bit. Now it's time to set up the tent, have a drink, and sit down for a moment. It was a modest stage, but as expected, long enough due to the heat.
